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MiSTer: FPGA gaming


Dr_Dave
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4 minutes ago, Spoonman said:

 

Why is it on the 5V? I had mine on the 3.3 volt I believe. That's what it should be IIRC.

 

As for the issues; I didn't have signal, just white noise. I plugged in the 3.5 jack and it worked. Took me a while to get everything working for my MiSTer on CRT.

 

These are my settings:

image.png.13db89e048ee652253c923807c728587.png

 

 

 

It's currently on 5V because the Composite adaptor requires it to convert the RGB to Composite. However, I'll give it a go on 3.3V to rule that out.

 

As I understand it, most of the video related settings don't apply to analogue output. It pretty much just spits out the native output from the core. You just need to make sure composite_sync is on, the scan doubler is off (and direct_video is on if coming via the HDMI port). Though, I have notice that you can mess up the CRT output by turning on internal scanlines at the core level (which seems to turn on the scandoubler).

 

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Definitely. I've had all sorts of problems getting set up, but it works fine now. I run the VGA to 15 kHz displays but indeed scan doubler screws things up and scanlines at core level can mess things up further (I cannot run scanlines on just the HDMI port, it screws the VGA too).

 

Further cements why this is not "ready for prime time" but is a great bit of kit.

 

I hope you get it sorted soon and am very interested as to the solution...

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15 minutes ago, Dr_Dave said:

 

This might the reason, possibly. I'd assumed that I was looking at RGB because it looked crisp and I'd selected "RGB" from the PS2 config menu. When I selected "Y Cb/Pb Cr/Pr" it showed the same picture but green tinged. I don't know enough about PS2s to say whether it spits composite out of its AV port as well...

 

However, I just hooked up my Spectrum Next with the cable I was using with the MiSTer, set it into RGB mode and got a blank picture.

 

So either there's something I'm missing, or the CRT doesn't do RGB like the manual claims it does and I need to get combing the streets for abandoned and immaculate Trinitrons! ;)

 

If the image looks clearer on PS2 using the RGB cable, then it's probably fine. I only mentioned it because the cable could sync on composite video, which means if you set the TV to composite, you'd see a picture via the RGB cable.

 

The MiSTer cable won't carry composite video on the sync line, so you wouldn't see a picture if the TV is set to composite input. 

 

Can you cycle through different inputs on the TV with the mister on?

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1 minute ago, Colonel Panic said:

 

If the image looks clearer on PS2 using the RGB cable, then it's probably fine. I only mentioned it because the cable could sync on composite video, which means if you set the TV to composite, you'd see a picture via the RGB cable.

 

The MiSTer cable won't carry composite video on the sync line, so you wouldn't see a picture if the TV is set to composite input. 

 

Can you cycle through different inputs on the TV with the mister on?

 

Yeah. There's basically only two inputs - the static-y reminder of analogue days gone; and the "ext" input. I seem to recall the OSD symbol being different when I plugged in the PS2 (it had an 8 beside it) which further led me to think this was an RGB input. There doesn't seem to be a separate input for the front composite jacks and the rear scart.

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One of the things that can tell a TV the image is RGB if there isn’t a manual way to switch is a certain voltage on pin 16. I can tell you on my UltimateMister cable that is not connected and I need to manually switch. 
 

You could open the scart head and check if the pin is connected, perhaps with a resistor in between. Then if you have a multimeter, check is the 5V VGA pin is connected to it. 

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Those of you who have been here long enough know that I've been dabbling with the PC88 / PC98 & Sharp X68K beta builds from Puu. The PC88 core looks like it's going to be the first to get an official release in MiSTer_Devel. Before it becomes offiicial Alan Steremberg (a developer who has been tweaking the core over the last few months) is inviting people to try the latest beta before it becomes official. Here's the link to get the beta core .....

https://discord.com/channels/647909397477195803/737506076806611064/858102712297193473

 

It's just typical that I'm not going to be near the MiSTer for a few days, but assuming that not a lot has changed from the early builds I've tried it should be easy enough to get it up and running. I would also assume that this will be using .d88 files.

 

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21 hours ago, Colonel Panic said:

One of the things that can tell a TV the image is RGB if there isn’t a manual way to switch is a certain voltage on pin 16. I can tell you on my UltimateMister cable that is not connected and I need to manually switch. 
 

You could open the scart head and check if the pin is connected, perhaps with a resistor in between. Then if you have a multimeter, check is the 5V VGA pin is connected to it. 

 

Had a poke around with this today. I tried both VGA > SCART cables that I have, testing continuity on pin 16 (pin 14 at the VGA end). In both cases, pin 16 appears connected, and in both case, when plugged into the TV, the voltage at the pin is 1.15V. Reading around, the spec for pin 16 says that it switches to RGB when there's a voltage of 1-3V at pin 16, so I'm wondering if my TV is slightly out of spec and the 1.15V is a little low.

 

Further reading suggests that folk often get the required voltage on pin 16 by taking a 5V line and splicing in a 180ohm resister between that and pin 16. This takes it down to 1.5V, since the internal resistance in the TV is about 75ohm. So my next plan was to do this... unfortunately, there isn't a 5V line on either of the two cables. In both cases, VGA pin 9 (which I believe is either 3.3V or 5V depending on the VGA PWR jumper) is not connected.

 

So I'm a bit stuck.

 

PS2 looks great though! ;)

 

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That's quite the mystery, @Dr_Dave

 

Pin 14 is vsync, I dunno what state that would be in while composite_sync = 1 in a MiSTer, but if it's vertical sync, it might look like a steady 1.15V on a multimeter, but it's a signal? 

 

You could swap pin 14 and pin 9 to give it 5V and use the resistor to complete the voltage divider you mention in your post? You could just try to put the required voltage on it by some other means?

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Another little project that some of you will be interested in, this time courtesy of Atrac17. This comes in the form of a script that downloads new MRA files for arcade games (mostly Jotego's CPS cores for the moment. These MRA files contain patches that patch the games "on the fly" to unlock characters, new modes ... that sort of thing. Full details in the link below

https://github.com/atrac17/Arcade_Offset

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On 26/06/2021 at 13:15, Colonel Panic said:

That's quite the mystery, @Dr_Dave

 

Pin 14 is vsync, I dunno what state that would be in while composite_sync = 1 in a MiSTer, but if it's vertical sync, it might look like a steady 1.15V on a multimeter, but it's a signal? 

 

You could swap pin 14 and pin 9 to give it 5V and use the resistor to complete the voltage divider you mention in your post? You could just try to put the required voltage on it by some other means?

 

No luck on this either. I swapped around the pins so that 5V was on the pin 16 cable and put a 180ohm resister in series. Voltage at the scart pin raised to about 1.4V, but still no switching to RGB mode. I think this one might be a lost cause.

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After a few days away I finally got a chance to try out the latest beta build of the PC88 core, certainly a big improvement over the last version I tried.

CRAP VIDEO ALERT!! Apologies for the poor video quality.

 

I only do crap videos as I don't have any capture device, but this should give you some idea of what to expect from the PC88 core. Not really a gameplay video in the true sense of the word, but more a demomstration of the core. The game being "played badly" is The Scheme ... and has a wonderful soundtrack by Yuzo Koshiro. At the end of the video are the settings used to get it to run, just in case anyone fancies giving this core a try.

 

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What controllers are folk using? I tried a cheapo SNES usb one but the d pad was too sensitive. Then I tried a retro bit Megadrive 6 button pad which worked ok but I could not get the mapping right. In the end I’ve settled on the PlayStation classic controller. Great layout for SNES stuff and feels very responsive. 

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i have a similar issue with pads as you @Dr_Dave. Here's what just happened to be at hand, PS1 USB controllers & Mageadrive Mini controllers are around here somewhere too but not in the pic.

padsg.thumb.jpg.2563e772fd978a042b446affc4b6afb4.jpg

 

I've been playing around a little more with the PC88 core tonight, I have found a little gem of a shmup that I've never heard of before called "Final Crisis". Appears to run quite well, a little choppy in places but I have no idea if it was like that on original hardware or is related to any bugs in the core. This was running the core in 4MHz mode, the game seemed way too fast in 8MHz mode. Either way, the game is pretty good and well worth trying.

 

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7 hours ago, Ninja Doctor said:

Is that the SNES switch online classic controller there? Are you running that usb or Bluetooth?

 

It is. Have only used it via USB so far, have yet to try Bluetooth - I think it needs a firmware update to make it into a normal BT controller.

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I also use an 8bitdo, an early SFC30 which is just the Super Famicom version. 

It works pretty good but it's not as nice as the SNES pads that came with the SNES mini.

I'm planning on getting a Raphnet adapter to use those on the mister. 

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@Ninja Doctor - Raphnet make adapters that should accommodate you there.

 

I'm loving my exploration of 16-bit era CD ROM games at the moment. I still buy physical releases a lot of consoles... all Nintendo stuff, Saturn and Dreamcast too, but it's impossible to get EVERYTHING. I'm resisting just hoovering up redump releases and trying to curate things as much as possible here...

 

1190340604_Screenshot2021-06-30at10_53_22.thumb.png.fb05568a8985515b80d53e9b2cd9caf4.png

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21 minutes ago, Ninja Doctor said:

Ideally I’d like to convert one of the SNES mini pads to usb too. They’re much nicer than my modded original sfc joypad. 

 

The plug they use is the same as the Wii controllers, so I just picked up a couple of usb converters for my mini pads.

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the whole mister system. The keyboard/controller doesn't move things through the menus. well, it will but only looks to be picking up a key press every 10 s or so. I'm assuming the wifi dongle is drawing too much power and causing minor brownouts. Removing the wifi dongle and everything goes back to being super snappy. 

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