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Everything posted by Dr_Dave

  1. It depends on how involved you want the process to be. At its easiest, it is: 1) Buy some moulds on Amazon and some resin (and whatever you want to use to colour them) 2) Mix and pour the resin into the moulds. 3) Wait. 4) Remove and polish. Inking the numbers is a case of painting over the numbers roughly, then wiping off the excess with your finger. Works well. This will give you results, but not very satisfactory ones. The resin will likely cure with air bubbles, so you won't get perfectly clear dice, and you won't have much control over look and shape. The full version is more like: 1) Design master dice in cad software. 2) 3d print. 3) Sand and polish to a high standard. 4) Use the masters with silicone to make your own moulds. 5) Repeat steps in the quick process but use a pressure pot to cure air bubbles. Then take lots of Instagram photos! I'm out and about tonight but I'll post some process photos tomorrow if you're interested.
  2. Maybe my search-fu was failing me, but I couldn't find a thread specifically about DICE. Seems about time for one! Does anyone have a grand and pretty collection to share? Any favourites? Anyone into making dice? I currently play no regular games, but I've always been obsessed with these tiny geometric oddities. So, in the midst of the lockdown, I decided to learn how to make them. Like any craft, it has turned out to be a real money-sponge, especially since I've got serious about quality. Big purchases have included a 3D printer, a pressure pot and compressor, abd so many fancy "nail art" decorations that my Amazon recommendations are a real mess at the moment... But I've finally started to get some good results. Here are a few sets: This one was the first complete set. Made with clear resin to test the moulds and inked blue because it reminds me of Foxes Glacier Mints. This set was the first time I tried to get a specific effect - in this case, I wanted blood splattered white marble. It kind of worked, though the "blood" is a bit more pooled than it is splatty. Still like them though. I was going for something a bit classier for this set. I love the gold effect inside. It's the kind of set a highborn cleric might use. Finally, this set, which is basically unusable due to the black-on-almost-black inking, but I love the look of it. It was intended to evoke a burning city, the air tinged red with dragonfire, dancing with motes of ash and flame etc. etc. I guess it kind of does!
  3. Some real progrss on the Saturn core (be careful with the sound - it's there, but can be a little ear-unfriendly):
  4. There's an auto-fire function built in to the MiSTer: https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/Main_MiSTer/wiki/Input-devices#auto-fire
  5. I have the week off work this week, and I'm spending it unashamedly watching as many SDGQ speedruns as I feel like. I've always wanted to indulge myself like this, and the fading moments of lockdown seem to be a never-to-be-repeated time of low social obligation. To cap it off, I dragged the CRT downstairs with the MiSTer and played Super Mario World all day long while loafing about on the couch. Felt like a teenager again - only a teenager with every game imaginable! The MiSTer really is a nice device to use... it just stays out of the way and lets you get on with playing. SMW, of course, is as good as I remember it. Might do the same again tomorrow... if I don't end up getting embroiled in some The 'Burbs style hijinks!
  6. This is great! The FPGA being used to run two GBC consoles at once, allowing for linked play. I think he did a GBA one as well.
  7. The plug they use is the same as the Wii controllers, so I just picked up a couple of usb converters for my mini pads.
  8. It is. Have only used it via USB so far, have yet to try Bluetooth - I think it needs a firmware update to make it into a normal BT controller.
  9. It's fair to say I have a little bit of a controller problem with the MiSTer... Though mostly I'm using the 8bitdo Pro 2 these days (not pictured).
  10. No luck on this either. I swapped around the pins so that 5V was on the pin 16 cable and put a 180ohm resister in series. Voltage at the scart pin raised to about 1.4V, but still no switching to RGB mode. I think this one might be a lost cause.
  11. Had a poke around with this today. I tried both VGA > SCART cables that I have, testing continuity on pin 16 (pin 14 at the VGA end). In both cases, pin 16 appears connected, and in both case, when plugged into the TV, the voltage at the pin is 1.15V. Reading around, the spec for pin 16 says that it switches to RGB when there's a voltage of 1-3V at pin 16, so I'm wondering if my TV is slightly out of spec and the 1.15V is a little low. Further reading suggests that folk often get the required voltage on pin 16 by taking a 5V line and splicing in a 180ohm resister between that and pin 16. This takes it down to 1.5V, since the internal resistance in the TV is about 75ohm. So my next plan was to do this... unfortunately, there isn't a 5V line on either of the two cables. In both cases, VGA pin 9 (which I believe is either 3.3V or 5V depending on the VGA PWR jumper) is not connected. So I'm a bit stuck. PS2 looks great though!
  12. Yeah. There's basically only two inputs - the static-y reminder of analogue days gone; and the "ext" input. I seem to recall the OSD symbol being different when I plugged in the PS2 (it had an 8 beside it) which further led me to think this was an RGB input. There doesn't seem to be a separate input for the front composite jacks and the rear scart.
  13. It's currently on 5V because the Composite adaptor requires it to convert the RGB to Composite. However, I'll give it a go on 3.3V to rule that out. As I understand it, most of the video related settings don't apply to analogue output. It pretty much just spits out the native output from the core. You just need to make sure composite_sync is on, the scan doubler is off (and direct_video is on if coming via the HDMI port). Though, I have notice that you can mess up the CRT output by turning on internal scanlines at the core level (which seems to turn on the scandoubler).
  14. This might the reason, possibly. I'd assumed that I was looking at RGB because it looked crisp and I'd selected "RGB" from the PS2 config menu. When I selected "Y Cb/Pb Cr/Pr" it showed the same picture but green tinged. I don't know enough about PS2s to say whether it spits composite out of its AV port as well... However, I just hooked up my Spectrum Next with the cable I was using with the MiSTer, set it into RGB mode and got a blank picture. So either there's something I'm missing, or the CRT doesn't do RGB like the manual claims it does and I need to get combing the streets for abandoned and immaculate Trinitrons!
  15. What issues did you have before plugging in the 3.5mm jack? If I plug that in, all that happens is that I get sound through the CRT. Jumper pins on the IO board are set to 5V for the VGA output. TV is just standard CRT res (480 lines or whatever) and the core I've mostly tried in the MD core. Like I say, all of it works fine if I take the VGA output and feed it through my composite converter. The CRT likes that. Also, the VGA output works on an LCD TV. I suspect it's just some aspect of the CRT doesn't like the RGB output and I'll never get to the bottom of it. But it feels very close
  16. It is the IO board (and also the same issue via the HDMI port). The jack just carries audio, and it's picture I'm lacking (though I have plugged into that as well).
  17. So I've got this old CRT that I recently posted about getting Composite to work on it. Cool, I was happy with that... but I've recently discovered that the TV can do RGB as well, by connecting a PS2 to it. The RGB picture looks lovely, and I'm suddenly unsatisfied with my Composite solution. However, I cannot get RGB to work no matter what I do. Here's what I've tried: 1) I bought the Spectrum Next VGA>RGB cable linked up thread, as this is known to work. 2) I have a minimal .ini file: [MiSTer] composite_sync=1 ; set to 1 for composite sync on HSync signal of VGA output. vga_scaler=0 ; set to 1 to connect VGA to scaler output. 3) I've verified this set up works with an LCD TV. Picture displays via this cable. 4) But when I connect to the CRT, I just get a blank image. It does seem to react to changes in the MiSTer, flickers when a core is started, that kind of thing, but nothing else. 5) I've tried taking the output from the HDMI port using direct_video=1 and a known good HDMI>VGA converter. Same result. 6) I've tried setting the SOG switch to both off and on. Same result. 7) I currently have my IO board jumper set to 5V for VGA. Has anyone been through this and come up with a solution? Or is my TV just somehow incompatible with the MiSTer RGB output?
  18. Been playing (and loving!) Orcs Must Die 3 recently, but I was finding that the game looked really washed out and indistinct. Really flat, nothing popped and nothing I could do in the game settings made much difference. On a whim, I tried disabling HDR in the Stadia settings and, lo and behold, the game has come alive! Looks lovely! (now I wish they'd patch out the stupid voices and it would be perfect)
  19. For SNES stuff, I use one of these: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/8Bitdo-Wireless-Controller-Classic-Electronic/dp/B074HBQ78V/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=8bitdo+snes&qid=1624469626&sr=8-2 I use it wired and it's perfect. I also have the SNES controller for Switch, which I understand can be used as a Bluetooth controller with a recent firmware update, I just haven't tried it yet.
  20. Great! That means I have a spare 64Mb card to give away then. So... if anyone is building a new MiSTer and wants to save a few quid on the memory module, drop me PM and it's yours. I won't even charge postage
  21. Woo! (was it the 32Mb or the 64Mb in the end?)
  22. Looks like someone has been getting a lot of MiSTer related support calls!
  23. Which version of the IO board do you have? I understand that earlier versions don't work with Megadrive or MasterSystem SNAC adaptors. I think most SNAC adaptors required v5.5 and Megadrive requires v6.1.
  24. Yes. It took me a while to find them... for some reason they don't seem to be under the cores list. I think I found the three S16 games in the "Alternates" folder - can't remember exactly, but they are probably there for you. Also, it doesn't download the CPS2 games, just the S16 games.
  25. I've also just discovered something really interesting... The adaptor linked above also works with the direct_video=1 option - this is where you get the raw analogue signal through the HDMI port by way of a VGA adaptor. I had an adaptor lying around, so plugged it into the HDMI port, plugged Antonio's composite adaptor into that and into the TV and it worked... This has the advantage of freeing up the contention between the audio and VGA port. But also... it seems to actually look better than the output from the VGA port. It just seems sharper and more stable. Plus, the menu shows the backdrop picture in full colour rather than defaulting to static as it does through the VGA port. There does seem to be a difference in the colour range that the HDMI port sends (24 bit versus the 18 bit of the VGA port), but I'm not sure this would make a difference to actual cores. It could be that I'm imagining the actual quality and will need to investigate further. The disadvantage, of course, is that I can't run the CRT and an LCD at the same time. But I'm not sure I'm bothered about that. I'll just set up a separate ini for CRT and switch to it as required.
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